Kandy
Kandy was the last royal capital of the Sinhala kings, holding out until 1815, and it's still Sri Lanka's cultural and spiritual heart. The city wraps around a lake in a ring of green hills, and at its centre stands the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important places of pilgrimage in the Buddhist world. The Sacred City of Kandy is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Why visit Kandy
- The Temple of the Tooth and its daily ceremonies
- A lakeside city with real local life, markets and colonial streets
- The gateway to the hill country and the famous train to Ella
- Easy day trips to botanical gardens, tea estates and temples
Things to do in Kandy
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
Built beside the old royal palace and the lake, the temple houses a relic of the Buddha's tooth. The relic itself is kept in a golden casket and only shown on special occasions, but the daily pujas (offering ceremonies), with drumming, flowers and crowds of worshippers, are moving to watch. They're held early in the morning, mid-morning and in the evening; the evening ceremony, around 6:30 pm, is the most atmospheric. Times can change, so check on arrival. The ticket also covers the museums in the temple complex.
Dress code: cover your shoulders and knees, and leave shoes at the counter (socks help on hot stone floors). Be respectful: don't pose with your back to Buddha images.
Kandy Lake
A flat, shaded walk around the lake, made by the last king of Kandy in the early 1800s, is the best way to get your bearings. Go early in the morning or around sunset.
Royal Botanical Gardens, Peradeniya
About 15–20 minutes outside the city, these sweeping gardens have a famous avenue of royal palms, a giant Javan fig tree, an orchid house and plenty of shade. Allow 2–3 hours.
Kandyan dance
Evening shows in town feature drummers, dancers in silver costumes and a fire-walking finale. They usually last about an hour.
Views and nature
Climb up to the large white Bahirawakanda Buddha for views over the city, or walk the forest trails of Udawattakele, a reserve just behind the temple.
Tea and spice
The Ceylon Tea Museum, in an old tea factory in the hills above the city, tells the story of Sri Lankan tea. Spice gardens on the roads around Kandy show how cinnamon, pepper and cardamom grow; prices in their shops tend to be high, so there's no need to buy.
The Esala Perahera
For ten nights each year, usually in July or August, Kandy hosts the Esala Perahera: processions of drummers, dancers, torch-bearers and richly decorated elephants. It's one of Asia's great festivals. Dates follow the lunar calendar and are announced each year. Rooms fill up and prices rise, so book early if you want to go.
How to get to Kandy
- By train: about 2.5–3 hours from Colombo Fort; reserved observation and first-class seats are worth booking.
- By car: about 3 hours from Colombo, depending on traffic, or 2.5–3 hours from Sigiriya.
- Onward: take the train or drive into the tea country to Nuwara Eliya and Ella.
How long to stay
One night gives you the temple's evening ceremony and the lake. Two nights adds Peradeniya, a dance show and a slower look at the city, and is ideal if you're breaking the journey between the Cultural Triangle and the hills.
Best time to visit
January to April is usually the driest and most comfortable. Kandy is about 500 metres above sea level, so it's milder than Colombo. Showers are possible at any time of year. July or August brings the Esala Perahera. See when to visit Sri Lanka.
Where to stay
Stay near the lake to walk to the temple and restaurants, or in the hills around the city for cooler air, quiet and views. Traffic in central Kandy can be heavy at rush hour, so a central base saves time.
Food to try
Try a Kandyan rice and curry, string hoppers at breakfast, and sweets like kavum and kokis from a local bakery. The city's markets are good for tropical fruit.
Travel tips
- Plan your day around the evening puja at the Temple of the Tooth
- Carry socks and a scarf or sarong for temple visits
- Avoid driving through the centre at rush hour
- Use the official ticket counter at the temple; ignore touts
- Book well ahead for the Esala Perahera
Frequently asked questions
What should I wear to the Temple of the Tooth?
Cover your shoulders and knees; shorts and sleeveless tops aren't allowed. You'll leave your shoes at the counter, so socks help on hot floors.
When are the ceremonies at the Temple of the Tooth?
There are daily pujas early in the morning, mid-morning and in the evening, around 6:30 pm. Times can change, so check when you arrive.
When is the Kandy Esala Perahera?
Usually in July or August, over about ten nights. Dates follow the lunar calendar and are announced each year.
How many days do I need in Kandy?
One night for the temple and lake; two nights to add the Peradeniya gardens, a dance show and a slower pace.
Is the train from Colombo to Kandy worth it?
Yes. It takes about 2.5–3 hours and climbs through green hills; book reserved seats if you can.